| Collaboration with Oregon State University at Duck, NC |
Jun-2009 |
5 pages |
| Authors:
William J Plant; WASHINGTON UNIV SEATTLE APPLIED PHYSICS LAB
|
 | A dual-polarized, coherent, X-band microwave radar called RiverRad was deployed at the Coastal Engineering Field Research Facility at Duck, NC in April, 2008. The purpose of the deployment was to utilize this calibrated radar to calibrate a marine radar operated by Oregon State University (OSU) on a long-term basis at Duck and to study microwave backscatter in the surf zone. Data from RiverRad were compared with those from the marine ... |
|
| Diurnal Sea Breeze-Driven Cross-Shore Exchange on the Inner Shelf in Central Monterey Bay |
Mar-2009 |
59 pages |
| Authors:
John E Hendrickson; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
|
| Cross-shore exchange on the inner shelf has important impacts on the ecosystem, transporting heat, nutrients, pollutants and phytoplankton between the midshelf and surf zone. The effects of a strong (cross-shore wind stress, Tsx 0.05Pa) diurnal (7-25 hrs) sea breeze on cross-shore exchange at Marina, Monterey Bay, California is investigated using two years of continuous winds, waves, and ocean velocities. Surface wind stress has spectral peaks at 1, 2, and 3 ... |
|
| Characterization of Episodic Rip Current Pulsations in the Inner Shelf During RCEX 2007 |
Mar-2009 |
63 pages |
| Authors:
Andrea C O'Neill; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
|
| As the Navy thrusts operations into global brown water environments, a more complete understanding of the phenomena ships and swimmers will encounter in nearshore regions is necessary. Rip currents remain infamous and important characteristics of the nearshore environment. These events not only impinge upon swimmers' safety, but may play a key role transferring water, containing nutrients, biologics, and even shore-/ship-borne pollution, between the surf zone and open ocean environments. Vertical ... |
|
| Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach-Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data. Revision |
Jan-2009 |
58 pages |
| Authors:
Ping Wang; Nicholas C Kraus; Tiffany M Roberts; UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH FLORIDA TAMPA DEPT OF GEOLOGY
|
| The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs were investigated that included both erosional and accretionary wavey conditions with random and monochromatic waves. The upper limit of beach change U(L) was found to approximately equal the vertical excursion of total wave runup, R(tw). An exception was runs where beach or dune scarps were produced, ... |
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| Ship Dynamics in the Surf Zone Model Testing |
Jul-2008 |
29 pages |
| Authors:
Miguel Quintero; Faydra Schaffer; NAVAL SURFACE WARFARE CENTER CARDEROCK DIV BETHESDA MD SHIP SYSTEMS INTEGRATION AND DESIGN DEPARTMENT
|
| The aim of this project was to generate data to identify the forces and motions on a ship model while positioned in breaking surf. The two types of breaking waves analyzed were plunging and spilling waves. A 140 feet long model test basin at the Naval Surface Warfare Center Carderock Division (NSWCCD) was used to create the waves with a flap wave maker and the heave motions, pitch motions, and ... |
|
| Environmental Support to Amphibious Craft, Patrol Boats, and Coastal Ships: An Annotated Bibliography |
05 MAR 2008 |
48 pages |
| Authors:
Charles M. Bachmann; Robert A. Fusina; C. R. Nichols; Jack McDermid; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB WASHINGTON DC
|
| This annotated bibliography is a selection of citations to books, articles, documents, and data bases highlighting environmental conditions that impact the safety and performance of amphibious craft, patrol boats, and ships designed for coastal operations. Each citation is followed by a brief summary and evaluation of the source (i.e., the annotation). Most annotations will define the scope of the source, list significant cross references, and identify the relevant environmental conditions. ... |
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| Bedforms and Mine Burial in the Nearshore |
MAR 2008 |
8 pages |
| Authors:
Edith L. Gallagher; Rob Holman; FRANKLIN AND MARSHALL COLL LANCASTER PA BIOLOGY DEPT
|
| The threat of mines has an enormous impact on Naval operations. Methods exist for search and identification of proud mines, but the potential existence of buried mines is of considerable concern. This work will help to describe the process of mine burial owing to bottom bedform movement by quantifying the expected time scales and depths of disturbance of the natural bed in the nearshore. As waves work the sediments on ... |
|
| Validation Test Report for Delft3D |
29 FEB 2008 |
47 pages |
| Authors:
Y. L. Hsu; James D. Dykes; Richard A. Allard; David W. Wang; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS
|
| This report describes the model setup, parameter selection and model validation of the Delft3D modeling system in nearshore applications. Delft3D, developed by Delft Hydraulics, is a complete coastal hydrodynamic modeling system, capable of simulating hydrodynamic processes due to waves, tides, river flow, and winds. Three high-fidelity observation data sets are used for validation tests. The first data set is from the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study (NSTS) data at Santa Barbara, ... |
|
| Diagnostic-Photographic Determination of Drag/Lift/Torque Coefficients of High Speed Rigid Body in Water Column |
01-Jan-2008 |
51 pages |
| Authors:
Chenwu Fan; Peter C Chu; Paul R Gefken; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA NAVAL OCEAN ANALYSIS AND PREDICTION LAB
|
| Prediction of rigid body falling through water column with a high speed (such as Mk-84 bomb) needs formulas for drag/lift and torque coefficients, which depend on various physical processes such as supercavitation and bubbles. A diagnostic-photographic method is developed in this study to determine the drag/lift and torque coefficients for a fast moving rigid-body in water column. The diagnostic part is to derive the relationships (called diagnostic relationships) between (drag, ... |
|
| Bioluminescence Potential in the Transition Zone to Very Shallow Water (VSW) |
Jan-2008 |
9 pages |
| Authors:
Mark A Moline; CALIFORNIA POLYTECHNIC STATE UNIV SAN LUIS OBISPO
|
| The long-term goal is to advance our understanding of the ecology of bioluminescent organisms and the mechanisms governing the temporal and depth-dependent variability of bioluminescence in the coastal ocean. With improvements in technology, finer-scale resolution and concurrent physical, chemical and biological data are available to advance our understanding of the forcing mechanisms governing the temporal and depth-dependent variability of bioluminescence in environments of Naval relevance. In addition, few measurements of ... |
|
| A Real-Time Nearshore Wave and Current Prediction System |
2008 |
|
| Authors:
Richard A. Allard; James D. Dykes; Yuan-Huang L. Hsu; James M. Kaihatu; Daniel Conley; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS
|
 | A nearshore wave, tide and current prediction system was demonstrated during the MREA04 Trial in the Portuguese coastal waters near Pinheiro do Cruz during the early spring of 2004. Daily forecasts of regional scale wave and tidal information and nearshore waves and currents were generated in DIOPS utilizing a suite of regional and nearshore models forced with data from meteorological and oceanographic production centers. A limited beach experiment was conducted ... |
|
| Modeling of Hurricane Impacts |
01 SEP 2007 |
28 pages |
| Authors:
Dano Roelvink; Ad Reniers; Ap van Dongeren; Jaap van Thiel de Vries; UNESCO-THE INST FOR WATER EDUCATION DELFT (NETHERLANDS)
|
| This fourth interim report describes ongoing development and validation of the XBeach model as part of the MORPHOS project and other activities over the period March-August 2007 (period extended due to late approval to continue) |
|
| Setup in the Surfzone |
SEP 2007 |
|
| Authors:
Alex Apotsos; MASSACHUSETTS INST OF TECH CAMBRIDGE
|
| Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum ... |
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| Morphologic Modeling of Multiple Barrier Island Breaches for Regional Application |
01-May-2007 |
|
| Authors:
Kenneth J Connell; Magnus Larson; Nicholas C Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| This paper introduces a time-dependent model of regional barrier island breaching for multiple openings, whether as permanent inlets or as new breaches to the same bay. The model allows an arbitrary number of breaches and is forced by tide, storm surge, and wave set up. Limitations on the hydrodynamics, hence calculated breach evolution, are those associated with the Keulegan inlet model. The model includes possible closure or limited breaching by ... |
|
| Nearshore Canyon Experiment |
MAR 2007 |
4 pages |
| Authors:
Robert T. Guza; SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA
|
| The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) was to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. The NCEX observations were the first extensive quantitative field measurements of the effect of severe alongshore bathymetric inhomogeneities (here a submarine canyon) on incident waves, and on the surfzone circulation. |
|
| Evaluation of Delft3D Performance in Nearshore Flows |
28 DEC 2006 |
27 pages |
| Authors:
Y. L. Hsu; James D. Dykes; Richard A. Allard; James M. Kaihatu; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEANOGRAPHY DIV
|
| The Delft3D modeling system, developed by Delft Hydraulics (www.wldelft.nl) is capable of simulating hydrodynamic processes due to waves, tides, rivers, winds, and coastal currents. It can be used to provide surf prediction for areas with complicated bathymetry where the use of a one-dimensional surf model is inappropriate. Delft3D has many model options and free parameters. The main objective of this investigation is to examine the effects of these selections on ... |
|
| Boussinesq Modeling of Alongshore Swash Zone Currents |
DEC 2006 |
20 pages |
| Authors:
Q. J. Chen; LOUISIANA STATE UNIV BATON ROUGE DEPT OF CIVIL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING
|
| The report documents the theoretical and numerical investigations on wave propagation over porous beds as well as on alongshore surf and swash currents. The study has been carried out in the framework of wave-resolving Boussinesq-type models. First, we have derived a new set of Boussinesq-type equations for nonlinear waves and surf-zone currents over a permeable beach (Chen 2006). A Stokes-type analysis and rational expansions were carried out to examine the ... |
|
| Modeling and Characterization of Microbarom Signals in the Pacific |
SEP 2006 |
70 pages |
| Authors:
Milton Garces; Mark Willis; HAWAII UNIV KAILUA-KONA INFRASOUND LAB
|
| Naturally occurring sources of infrasound include (but are not limited to) severe weather, volcanoes, bolides, earthquakes, surf, mountain waves, and, the focus of this research, nonlinear ocean wave interactions. Man-made sources of infrasound also exist, such as airplane activity, military testing, rocket launches, and nuclear explosions (Bedard and Georges, 2000). Due to its low frequency, infrasound can travel global distances with relatively low attenuation while higher frequency audible sound is ... |
|
| Longshore Sediment Transport Rate Calculated Incorporating Wave Orbital Velocity Fluctuations |
SEP 2006 |
233 pages |
| Authors:
Ernest R. Smith; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Laboratory experiments were performed to study and improve longshore sediment transport rate predictions. Measured total longshore transport in the laboratory was approximately three times greater for plunging breakers than spilling breakers. Three distinct zones of longshore transport were observed across the surf zone: incipient breaker zone, inner surf zone, and swash zone. Transport at incipient breaking was influenced by breaker type; inner surf zone transport was dominated by wave height, ... |
|
| Modeling of Hurricane Impacts, Interim Report 2 |
AUG 2006 |
28 pages |
| Authors:
Dano Roelvink; Ad Reniers; Ap van Dongeren; Dirk-Jan Walstra; UNESCO-THE INST FOR WATER EDUCATION DELFT (NETHERLANDS)
|
| This report is the second progress report of the project "Modeling of Hurricane Impacts." The main objective of the XBeach model is to provide a robust and flexible environment in which to test morphological modelling concepts for the case of dune erosion, overwashing and breaching. The top priority is to provide numerical stability; first order accuracy is accepted since there is a need for small space steps and time steps ... |
|
| Including Nearshore Processes in Phase-Averaged Hydrodynamics Models |
AUG 2006 |
47 pages |
| Authors:
Bradley D. Johnson; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The large spatial and time scales of the numerical modeling projects of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) requires the use of computationally efficient phase-averaged hydrodynamic models derived by averaging the equations of motion over a representative short wave period. Guidance in modeling nearshore regions with phase-averaged hydrodynamic models is provided herein. Physical processes unique to the surf zone are described along with methods of incorporating these effects to ... |
|
| Simulation and Analysis of Dart Dispense Events with Collisions |
2006 |
|
| Authors:
William E. Dietz; James Y. Baltar; Kevin Losser; Morris Morell; DIGITAL FUSION HUNTSVILLE AL
|
| Current approaches to beach and surf zone mine clearance depend on the dispensing of large numbers of darts from a parent missile or projectile. The mine clearance mission requires a uniform distribution of darts over the target area. The dispersal pattern is affected by many factors, including the angle of attack, velocity, and rotational rate of the parent vehicle, the aerodynamic design of the darts, dart collision, and the different ... |
|
| Assimilating Data into a Circulation Model |
05 DEC 2005 |
4 pages |
| Authors:
Jennifer Shore; Thomas Lippmann; OHIO STATE UNIV COLUMBUS BYRD POLAR RESEARCH CENTER
|
| The purpose of this grant was to develop data assimilation methods for state-of-the-art nearshore oceanographic circulation models. The data for the assimilation effort was provided from the collaborative Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) held in the fall of 2003. This research led to the development and implementation of a time-distributed averaging procedure (TDAP) within the Ozkan-Kirby (OK) nearshore circulation model to assimilate dense surface velocity observations obtained at NCEx. |
|
| Acoustic Focusing in Shallow Water and Bubble Radiation Effects |
20 OCT 2005 |
9 pages |
| Authors:
Grant B. Deane; SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA MARINE PHYSICAL LAB
|
| The long-term goals of the "Acoustic Focusing in Shallow Water and Bubble Radiation Effects" project is as follows: (1) understand the role of wave-induced bubbles in the upper ocean boundary layer on the performance of underwater communications systems and ambient noise generation, (2) study the implications of focusing by surface gravity waves on Doppler sonar and acoustic communications systems in shallow and very shallow water, and (3) study the performance ... |
|
| Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches |
AUG 2005 |
308 pages |
| Authors:
Yoshimitsu Tajima; Ole S. Madsen; MASSACHUSETTS INST OF TECH CAMBRIDGE DEPT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING
|
| This study presents a theoretical model for predictions of nearshore hydrodynamic characteristics and the local sediment transport rate along long, straight beaches. The wave may be periodic or random, the beach may be plane or barred, and the bed may be concrete or covered with movable natural sand grains. The present model must be efficient and flexible so that it can accommodate iterative computations for time-varying and, hence, arbitrary beach ... |
|
| Australian DefenceScience. Volume 13, Number 2, Winter |
Jan-2005 |
|
| Authors:
DEFENCE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY ORGANISATION CANBERRA (AUSTRALIA)
|
| CONTENTS: Extra protection for combat suits - DSTO is researching the ability of modified activated carbons to counter toxic chemicals and biological pathogens in order to increase the level of protection offered by combat suits against chemical and biological warfare agents. Viewing device on target to reduce frontline risk - In urban warfare, bullet or fragment wounds to the head or face are proportionally higher than wounds to other parts ... |
|
| DIOPS: A PC-Based Wave, Tide and Surf Prediction System |
2005 |
7 pages |
| Authors:
Richard Allard; James Dykes; James Kaihatu; Dean Wakeham; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEANOGRAPHY DIV
|
| The Distributed Integrated Ocean Prediciton System (DIOPS) is a PC- based wave tide and surf prediction system designed to provide DoD accurate and timely surf predictions for essentially any world-wide location. Regional and coastal wave predictions are made by the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave module that is typically initialized by offshore directional wave spectra from the Fleet Numerical Meteorological and Oceanography Center (FNMOC). Tide and storm surge predictions are ... |
|
| Wave Momentum Flux Parameter: A Descriptor for Nearshore Waves |
16 JUL 2004 |
19 pages |
| Authors:
Steven A. Hughes; ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| A new parameter representing the maximum depth-integrated wave momentum flux occurring over a wave length is proposed for characterizing the wave contribution to nearshore coastal processes on beaches and at coastal structures. This parameter has units of force per unit crest width, and it characterizes flow kinematics in nonbreaking waves at a given depth better than other wave parameters that do not distinguish increased wave nonlinearity. The wave momentum flux ... |
|
| Field Observation of Setup |
JUN 2004 |
45 pages |
| Authors:
Sean P. Yemm; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
|
| Setup is defined as the superelevation of mean water surface within the surfzone and is caused by the reduction in wave momentum shoreward of the breaking point and compensating positive pressure gradient. Data were acquired north of Scripps Canyon on a gently sloping section of beach, which was homogenous in along-shore morphology, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment, 2004. Pressure sensors were deployed both above and below the bed. Wave heights ... |
|
| Remote Characterization of Littoral Dynamics in Support of Expeditionary Warfare |
2004 |
10 pages |
| Authors:
K. T. Holland; Jack Puleo; Nathaniel G. Plant; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS MARINE GEOSCIENCES DIV
|
| Over the last decade there has been an increasing military interest in conditions and processes occurring in very shallow water and surf zone regions, typically less than 10 m depth. Interestingly, this region is extremely diverse and dynamic meaning that characterizations of environmental conditions necessary for successful expeditionary warfare operations may be limited to a particular location (on the order of lOOs of meters) or a relatively short time interval ... |
|
| High-Resolution Multibeam Deepwater Cable Route Survey in High-Relief Seafloor Area |
01-Sep-2003 |
10 pages |
| Authors:
Frederick Arnold; Mike Harrison; Roland Poeckert; Geoffrey Faneros; THALES GEOSOLUTIONS (PACIFIC) INC SAN DIEGO CA
|
| In support of monitoring for nuclear tests, a Hydroacoustic Data Acquisition System (HDAS) monitoring system is to be installed at Ascension Island. The system consists of two hydrophone arrays linked by fibre optic cable to the island. A survey to select cable routes from PanAm Beach on Ascension Island to the proposed hydrophone sites was conducted in the summer of 2002. The survey utilised various acoustic sensors, single beam and ... |
|
| Countermine Operations in Very Shallow Water and Surf Zone: The Role of Bottom Crawlers |
Sep-2003 |
11 pages |
| Authors:
Chuck Bernstein; Tony Aponick; FOSTER-MILLER INC WALTHAM MA
|
| In littoral warfare, strategic, operational and tactical mobility is an obvious advantage to naval forces that rely on unobstructed sea lanes. Naval mines can diminish or deny this advantage by reducing freedom of maneuverability and preventing naval forces from controlling or shaping the battlefield. In the Surf Zone (SZ) region, small autonomous crawling robots are being developed by the Office of Naval Research to perform mine hunting missions in support ... |
|
| Wave Breaking Bubble Production and Channel Characterization of the Surf Zone |
AUG 2003 |
7 pages |
| Authors:
Grant B. Deane; SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA MARINE PHYSICAL LAB
|
| The long-term goal of this research is to understand underwater acoustic communications propagation through the surf zone. A secondary goal was to see if high-intensity, transient sound caustics created by shoaling surf could be exploited to improve the detection of buried objects in the surf zone. |
|
| Barrier Island Erosion During a Winter Cold Front in Mississippi Sound |
MAY 2003 |
17 pages |
| Authors:
Timothy R. Keen; Gregory Stone; James Kaihatu; Y. L. Hsu; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS
|
| The present study uses high-resolution hydrodynamic and sedimentation models to evaluate the sedimentation patterns inferred in the previous study. This work is examining the sensitivity of erosion on the sound side of West Ship Island to the tidal stage and changes in coastline due to beach replenishment. Water levels and mean currents for a range of tidal conditions and typical cold front winds are being computed using POM. Waves within ... |
|
| Chapter 2: Frequency Domain Wave Models in the Nearshore and Surf Zones |
2003 |
31 pages |
| Authors:
James M. Kaihatu; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEANOGRAPHY DIV
|
| In deep water (kh) 1, where k is the wave number and h the water depth), second-order wave nonlinearity can be described as a small correction to the underlying linear wave. Perturbation expansions in wave steepness E = ka, where a is the wave amplitude, are used (Phillips, 1960), and at second-order only non-resonant (bound) waves are possible among triads of wave frequencies. Thus the interacting waves with the frequency-vector ... |
|
| Standoff Systems and Technologies for Near Shore Mine Countermeasures (MCM) |
01-Apr-2002 |
10 pages |
| Authors:
Brian Almquist; OFFICE OF NAVAL RESEARCH ARLINGTON VA
|
| The Office of Naval Research "ONR" published a Broad Agency Announcement "BAA" to solicit concepts that would lead to the development of technologies for the rapid, organic, standoff breaching of surf zone "SZ" and beach zone "BZ" mines and obstacles. The BAA solicitation resulted in three concepts that are currently funded by ONR and are referred to as the Future Countermine Counter-Obstacle "CMCO" Systems. Two are aircraft deployed and one ... |
|
| Demonstration of Surf Zone Crawlers: Results from AUV Fest 01 |
APR 2002 |
13 pages |
| Authors:
Chuck Bernstein; Mark Connolly; Mitch Gavrilash; Dan Kucik; Stan Threatt; NAVAL SURFACE WARFARE CENTER PANAMA CITY FL
|
| A key element in minimizing the risks of an amphibious assault is the ability to search and map the surf zone for mines and obstacles. The Office of Naval Research is sponsoring the development of an autonomous, bottom-crawling vehicle to investigate its applications in searching and clearing potential landing zones. In October 2001, AUV Fest 01 was held in Gulfport, Mississippi, where the current state of development of these vehicles ... |
|
| Adaptive Beach Monitoring |
JAN 2002 |
10 pages |
| Authors:
William A. Kuperman; SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA MARINE PHYSICAL LAB
|
| The long-term goal of the Marine Physical Laboratory's Adaptive Beach Monitoring (ABM) program is to determine the capabilities of small on-shore and off-shore seismoacoustic arrays along with directional wave and current sensors to provide the amphibious force commander with a covert monitoring capability of shore-based as well as near-shore enemy forces, near- shore current and wave dynamics, and beach surf conditions. |
|
| Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components |
2002 |
|
| Authors:
A. Sheremet; R. T. Guza; S. Elgar; T. H. Herbers; WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION MA
|
| The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into ... |
|
| Development of a Large-Scale Laboratory Facility for Sediment Transport Research |
SEP 2001 |
187 pages |
| Authors:
David G. Hamilton; Bruce A. Ebersole; Ernest R. Smith; Ping Wang; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICSLAB
|
| This report documents the development and initial applications of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF), which is located at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), Vicksburg, MS. The LSTF was built to facilitate basic and applied research in the field of coastal sediment transport processes. Work reported here was fluided by Work Unit 32870 "Large-Scale Laboratory Investigation of Longshore Sediment Transport," which ... |
|
| Software Design Document for the Oceanographic and Atmospheric Master Library SURF 3.1 Forecasting Program |
31 OCT 2000 |
210 pages |
| Authors:
Daniel A. Osiecki; Lari N. Migues; Marshall D. Earle; Y. L. Hsu; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEAN DYNAMICS AND PREDICTION BRANCH
|
| The Software Design Document (SDD) is written for the new SURF 3.1 model to be submitted to the Oceanographic and Atmospheric Master Library (OAML) . This SDD provides detailed software descriptions such as flowcharts and variable names of the SURF 3.1 model. An overview of the surf forecasting model and the equations used for wave and longshore current computation are also included. Note that software is ... |
|
| Establishing Uniform Longshore Currents in a Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility |
27 SEP 2000 |
21 pages |
| Authors:
David G. Hamilton; Bruce A. Ebersole; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to ... |
|
| Bubble Clouds and their Transport within the Surf Zone as Measured with a Distributed Array of Upward-Looking Sonars |
20 SEP 2000 |
31 pages |
| Authors:
Peter H. Dahl; UNIV OF WASHINGTON SEATTLE APPLIED PHYSICS LAB
|
| A collaborative, multi-institute experiment called the Scripps Pier Experiment was conducted in the vicinity of the Scripps pier in La Jolla, California, in March 1997 to study the fate of bubbles in the surf zone and the effects of these bubbles on acoustic propagation. This paper discusses data gathered by the Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, using a set of four upward-looking sonars (frequency ... |
|
| Mine Burial in the Surf Zone |
SEP 2000 |
62 pages |
| Authors:
Wayne L. Plager; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
|
| The volumetric rate of scour and burial of a MK-83 mine by waves in the swash and surf zone were measured in two experiments. The beach was near planar with a 1:40 slope and mean grain size of 0.2 mm. The deep water significant wave height was about 2 m with peak periods of 13 sec. An Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter recorded orbital velocities of the waves. ... |
|
| Improvement and Validation of the Navy Longshore Current Model |
13 JUL 2000 |
47 pages |
| Authors:
Y. L. Hsu; Theodore R. Mettlach; Marshall D. Earle; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS
|
| The Navy Standard Surf Model, SURF 3.0, is known to have shortcomings in longshore current prediction. Currents are often found to be too weak over most of the surf zone and too high in very shallow water. Both bottom friction and horizontal eddy diffusion formulations in SURF 3.0 are carefully examined and modified. Instead of using a constant friction throughout the surf zone, a new bottom ... |
|
| Nonlinear Shear Waves in the Surf Zone |
31 MAY 2000 |
3 pages |
| Authors:
John S. Allen; OREGON STATE UNIV CORVALLIS
|
| Funds from this grant have been used to provide Graduate Research Assistant (GRA) salary and tuition support for Jack A. Puleo (a U.S. citizen) over much of the period July 1996 to August 1996. Mr. Puleo started graduate studies in the College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Science, Oregon State University in July 1996 and graduated with an MS Degree in Oceanography in summer 1998. Results ... |
|
| Validating a Coupled Suite of Wave, Tide, and Surf Models at Onslow Bay,North Carolina |
22 MAR 2000 |
29 pages |
| Authors:
Richard A. Allard; Y. L. Hsu; Jane M. Smith; Kelley Miles; NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEAN DYNAMICS AND PREDICTION BRANCH
|
| In this study a suite of off-the-shelf wave, tide, and surf models are coupled to produce a physically consistent dynamic representation of the surf zone for Onslow Beach, North Carolina Mary of the models used in this study have undergone some degree of validation, however, the suite of models has not been evaluated. The Integrated Ocean Program (IOP) model suite consists of the deep-water wave model ... |
|
| Breaking Through the Wall: A Realistic Perspective of the Very Shallow Water (VSW) and Surf Zone (SZ) Mine Threat |
08 FEB 2000 |
30 pages |
| Authors:
Edward W. Eidson; NAVAL WAR COLL NEWPORT RI
|
| The ability to project power ashore through amphibious operations is a Navy and Marine Corps core competency that must be maintained in order to allow global response as delineated in the National Security Strategy. Because of the VSW/SZ mine threat, the technological inability to defeat it, amphibious doctrinal rigidity, and "zero acceptable casualties" mentality, the United States has become incapable of projecting power ashore. This ... |
|
| Modeling of Coastal Ocean Flow Fields |
2000 |
6 pages |
| Authors:
John S. Allen; OREGON STATE UNIV CORVALLIS COLL OF OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES
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| The long-term goals of this project are to understand the physical oceanographic circulation processes on continental shelves with emphasis on the mechanisms involved in across-shelf transport. The scientific objectives include the application of numerical circulation models to process studies and to simulations of continental shelf fields, including the nearshore surf zone, to help achieve understanding of the flow dynamics. The numerical experiments are supplemented with analytical studies whenever possible. Overall, ... |
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| Void Fraction Under Breaking Waves |
DEC 1999 |
52 pages |
| Authors:
Ronald J. Piret; NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
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| Bubble injection due to breaking waves within the surf zone is inferred by measuring void fraction using a 3 m vertical array of eight conductivity cells in conjunction with video pixel intensity. Void fraction errors associated with the conductivity measurements are examined, including vertical variations in the temperature and conductivity (measured), proximity effects near the surface, and estimates of the surface elevation using pressure ... |
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Reports by Keyword(s)
SURF
