| Risks to Navigation at the Matagorda Ship Channel Entrance, Texas, Phase 2: Evaluation of Significant Risk Factors |
AUG 2011 |
257 pages |
| Authors:
Stephen T. Maynord; Lihwa Lin; Nicholas C. Kraus; Dennis W. Webb; Gary Lynch; Ronald E. Wahl; Daniel A. Leavell; Don E. Yule; Joseph B. Dunbar; ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS VICKSBURG MS ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER
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 | The Phase 1 Matagorda study (Maynord et al. 2007) examined eight factors to identify which pose a significant risk of disrupting navigation at the Matagorda Ship Channel (MSC) entrance. Three factors were identified that warranted further study of the risk of disrupting navigation. These three factors were flanking of the jetty and slope protection, strong and asymmetric currents on the bay side of the peninsula and in the bottleneck (constricted ... |
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| Barrier Beach Breaching from the Lagoon Side, With Reference to Northern California |
2008 |
12 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; Kiki Patsch; Sophie Munger; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| During the dry season in California, when storm action is limited and river flow is weak, the mouths of many estuaries close, creating barrier beaches and ponding water in the backing lagoons. If these barrier beaches do not breach naturally or are not manually breached, flooding hazards can develop in adjacent low-lying areas. Many barrier beaches are breached manually to facilitate migration of salmon or the threatened steelhead trout. Natural ... |
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| Navigation Improvements, Mouth of the Colorado River, Texas |
MAY 2007 |
14 pages |
| Authors:
Ronnie G. Barcak; Nicholas C. Kraus; Lihwa Lin; Ernest R. Smith; Daniel J. Heilman; Robert C. Thomas; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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| This paper describes an ongoing analysis of coastal and inlet processes at the mouth of the Colorado River Navigation Channel, Texas. A weir jetty system with impoundment basin down drift of the weir was constructed at the mouth of the Colorado River in 1985 to reduce the expected rate of dredging of the shallow-draft entrance navigation channel. The required rate of dredging has been about double the design estimate, however, ... |
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| Long-Term Inlet Stability of a Multiple Inlet System, Pass Cavallo, Texas |
MAY 2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Brian K. Batten; Nicholas C. Kraus; Lihwa Lin; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Matagorda Bay, Texas, is connected to the Gulf of Mexico by two inlets, Pass Cavallo and the Matagorda Ship Channel "MSC". Pass Cavallo is a natural inlet located at the southwest terminus of Matagorda Peninsula, and the MSC is an artificially cut, deep-draft federally maintained navigation channel approximately 7.2 km northeast. Pass Cavallo was historically stable until the 20th century, when the tidal prism was first reduced in 1935 by ... |
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| Physical Processes Study of Goldsmith Inlet, New York |
MAY 2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Michael J. Morgan; Nicholas C. Kraus; ARMY ENGINEER DISTRICT NEW YORK
|
| Goldsmith Inlet is a small semi-natural and non-navigable inlet located on the northeast shore of Long Island, NY, and it connects Goldsmith Pond to Long Island Sound. The coast is gravelly, waves relatively small because of limited fetch, and tide range relatively large at 2 m as compared to the south shore of Long Island. The inlet has been in existence since at least the 1700's, but is apparently prone ... |
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| Coastal Inlets of Texas, USA |
2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Presently, 16-17 permanent inlets connect the inland coastal waterways and rivers to the Gulf of Mexico on the 560-km long coast of Texas. Processes controlling inlet stability in Texas are typically more complex than those acting on the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean coasts of the United States, where the astronomical tide dominates. The tide on the Texas coast is predominantly or fully diurnal and with small range; however, the large ... |
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| Longshore Sand Transport Calculated by Time-Dependent Shear Stress |
2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Ernest R. Smith; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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| Based on longshore sand transport experiments performed in a large basin, measured sand transport rates obtained for spilling and plunging waves are compared to the Bodge and Dean (1987) and Watanabe (1992) distributed load formulas, representative of typical formulas applied in engineering practice. Neither formula estimates the measurements satisfactorily. The Bodge and Dean formula is sensitive to changes in energy flux and does not include threshold shear. The Watanabe formula ... |
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| Limits of Beach and Dune Erosion in Response to Wave Runup Elucidated from Supertank |
2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Tiffany M. Roberts; Ping Wang; Nicholas C. Kraus; UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH FLORIDA TAMPA
|
| The unique dataset from SUPERTANK is analyzed to examine the upper limit of beach change in response to elevated water level caused by wave runup. Thirty SUPERTANK runs are investigated, including both erosional and accretionary wave conditions under random and monochromatic waves. The upper limit of beach change approximately equals the maximum vertical excursion of swash runup. Exceptions to this direct relationship are those with beach or dune scarps. The ... |
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| Sedimentation Patterns in a Stabilized Migratory Inlet, Blind Pass, Florida |
2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Ping Wang; David K. Tidwell; Tanya M. Beck; Nicholas C. Kraus; UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH FLORIDA TAMPA
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| The shoaling rate in Blind Pass entrance channel approximately equals the net southward longshore sediment transport rate. Most of the shoaling occurs along the northern side of the channel. Flow measurements and numerical modeling reveal that the ebb current is approximately twice as strong in the thalweg along the south side as compared to the rest of the channel. In contrast, the flood current is mainly uniform across the inlet ... |
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| Morphologic Response to a New Inlet, Packery Channel, Corpus Christi, Texas |
2007 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Deidre D. Williams; Nicholas C. Kraus; Carl M. Anderson; TEXAS A AND M UNIV CORPUS CHRISTI TX
|
| In Jul 2005, Packery Channel was opened by Hurricane Emily during the second year of its construction. This inlet connects Corpus Christi Bay and Upper Laguna Madre to the Gulf of Mexico, and it is the first artificially cut inlet in Texas in 17 years. The inlet has remained open and navigable for shallow-draft recreational boats despite construction delays, and its parallel dual jetties were completed in Sep 2006. A ... |
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| Breach History and Susceptibility Study, South Jetty and Navigation Project, Grays Harbor, Washington |
SEP 2006 |
242 pages |
| Authors:
Ty V. Wamsley; Mary A. Cialone; Kenneth J. Connell; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The purpose of this study was to analyze the December 1993 breach at Grays Harbor, WA, and assess the threat to the Federal Navigation Project had the breach not been filled the following fall. The study was conducted by quantifying evolution of breach morphology; numerically simulating the ocean wave and water level conditions producing the current through such a breach, including investigation of wide-area implications for the current in Grays ... |
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| Matagorda Ship Channel, Texas: Jetty Stability Study |
AUG 2006 |
165 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; Lihwa Lin; Brian K. Batten; Gary L. Brown; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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| The entrance of the Matagorda Ship Channel, connecting the Gulf of Mexico to Matagorda Bay, Texas, has experienced a strong currents since its construction in 1963-1964. Strong currents had been predicted in physical model experiments performed during design to determine the optimal location of the new inlet cut through Matagorda Peninsula and entrance configurations. The current has produced a large area of scour on the bay side of the inlet ... |
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| Mid-Bay Islands Hydrodynamics and Sedimentation Modeling Study, Chesapeake Bay |
AUG 2006 |
184 pages |
| Authors:
Walter J. Dinicola; Edward T. Fulford; Mathew R. Henderson; Nicholas C. Kraus; Lihwa Lin; Ram K. Mohan; Mark Reemts; Ann R. Sherlock; Jane M. Smith; Oner Yucel; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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| James Island and Barren Island, in Maryland waters, are among the few remaining eastern shore islands in mid-Chesapeake Bay. Both islands are eroding at a rapid rate due to wave and storm action, as well as to relative sea level rise. These two islands are considered as potential candidate restoration sites as a beneficial use of clean dredged material from the Baltimore Harbor and Channels Federal Navigation Project. The island ... |
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| Two-Dimensional Depth-Averaged Circulation Model CMS-M2D: Version 3.0, Report 2, Sediment Transport and Morphology Change |
AUG 2006 |
216 pages |
| Authors:
Adele M. Buttolph; Christopher W. Reed; Nicholas C. Kraus; Nobuyuki Ono; Magnus Larson; Benoit Camenen; Hans Hanson; Ty Wamsley; Aan K. Zundel; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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| This report, the second in a series, describes upgrades of the two-dimensional circulation model CMS-M2D developed under the Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) conducted at the U.S. Army Engineer Rsearch and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory. The upgrades chiefly concern capability to calculate sediment transport and morphology change at coastal inlets, navigation channels, and adjacent beaches. CMS-M2D is operated as part of the CIRP's Coastal Modeling System (CMS) that ... |
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| Cascade Version 1: Theory and Model Formulation |
JUN 2006 |
26 pages |
| Authors:
Magnus Larson; Nicholas C. Kraus; Kenneth J. Connell; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS
|
| This technical note describes the physical processes background of the numerical model Cascade, Version 1, which simulates long-term, regional sediment transport and coastal evolution. Cascade can be applied to reaches of coast covering hundreds of kilometers at which morphologic evolution extending to centuries may be of interest. The setting may encompass several barrier islands separated by inlets at which sediment is transferred through tidal-shoal complexes and dredging. Cascade capabilities are ... |
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| Cascade Version 1: User's Guide |
MAY 2006 |
27 pages |
| Authors:
Kenneth J. Connell; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS
|
| This technical note is a user's guide for Cascade Version 1, distributed in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS). The SMS is a Graphical User Interface (GUI) for generating, controlling, executing, and analyzing Cascade model simulations. Cascade and the Cascade interface are being developed under the System-Wide Water Resources Program (SWWKP). The interface, control options, data import and export features, and data analysis are described herein. |
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| Evaluation of Downdrift Shore Erosion, Mattituck Inlet, New York: Section 111 Study |
APR 2006 |
125 pages |
| Authors:
Brian K. Batten; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| This report was prepared for the U.S. Army Engineer District, New York, to evaluate shore erosion in response to construction of the Federal navigation project at Mattituck Inlet, NY, under the authority of Section III of the River and Harbor Act of 1968, Public Law 90-483, approved August 1968. The original navigation project was authorized in 1896 and modified in 1935 and 1964. The report is organized into seven chapters ... |
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| The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Inlets Research, With Special Reference to Shore Bird Habitat |
MAR 2006 |
8 pages |
| Authors:
Julie D. Rosati; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS
|
| The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) has the mission to advance knowledge and predictive technology to reduce the cost of dredging, promote navigation channel reliability, and quantify the sediment-sharing interactions between inlets and adjacent beaches. Guidance, numerical models, and desktop tools developed by CIRP can be applied to better understand and predict the ecologic viability of the inlet system for the shore bird population. This technical note is directed towards ... |
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| Frequency-Asked Questions (FAQs) About Coastal Inlets and U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) |
FEB 2006 |
22 pages |
| Authors:
Steven A. Hughes; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) described herein provides answers to Frequently-Asked Questions (FAQs) about coastal inlets and about the Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP). The FAQs are grouped into the following categories: a. General questions about coastal inlets. b. Coastal inlet hydrodynamics. c. Coastal inlet morphology. d. Coastal inlet channels. e. Coastal inlet structures. f. CIRP. g. Available tools for solving coastal inlet problems. h. Miscellaneous inlet ... |
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| Coastal Barrier Island Breaching, Part 2: Mechanical Breaching and Breach Closure |
AUG 2005 |
22 pages |
| Authors:
Ty V. Wamsley; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICSLAB
|
| The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) herein describes case studies of the mechanical closure and creation of coastal barrier island breaches. Emphasis is on breaches that form near inlets, with examples also given of breach opening for environmental enhancement. Part 1 in this technical note series reviews the causes of breaching and measures to prevent breaching (Kraus and Wamsley 2003). Subsequent technical notes will describe models under development ... |
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| Regional Morphology Analysis Package (RMAP). Part 2. User's Guide and Tutorial |
AUG 2005 |
40 pages |
| Authors:
Brian K. Batten; Nicholas C. Kraus; ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| This technical note is a user's guide for the Regional Morphology Analysis Package (RMAP), an integrated set of calculation tools developed for manipulating, analyzing, visualizing, and archiving data on shoreline positions and beach profiles in a georeferenced environment on a personal computer. The software interface, options, data importation/ exportation, and data analysis are described, A step-by-step tutorial is provided to familiarize the user with RMAP. |
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| Geomorphic Analysis of Mattituck Inlet and Goldsmith Inlet, Long Island, New York |
JUL 2005 |
330 pages |
| Authors:
Michael J. Morgan; Nicholas C. Kraus; Jodi M. McDonald; HUNTER COLL NEW YORK
|
| This study of Mattituck Inlet and Goldsmith Inlet, Long Island, NY, covers the historic and geomorphic background, literature, field measurements, numerical modeling of tidal circulation, and analysis of inlet morphologic properties. The inlets are located 8.2 km apart on the eastern end of the north shore of Long Island, NY, facing Long Island Sound Mattituck Inlet has a federally maintained channel and dual jetties, and it connects the sound to ... |
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| Beach Profile Equilibrium and Patterns of Wave Decay and Energy Dissipation Across the Surf Zone Elucidated in a Large-Scale Laboratory Experiment |
MAY 2005 |
14 pages |
| Authors:
Ping Wang; Nicholas C. Kraus; ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The widely accepted assumption that the equilibrium beach profile in the surf zone corresponds with uniform wave-energy dissipation per unit volume is directly examined in six cases from the large-scale SUPERTANK laboratory experiment. Under irregular waves, the pattern of wave-energy dissipation across a large portion of the surf zone became relatively uniform as the beach profile evolved toward equilibrium. Rates of wave-energy dissipation across a near-equilibrium profile calculated from wave ... |
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| Numerical Morphologic Model of Barrier Island Breaching |
2005 |
14 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; Kentaro Hayashi; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| A numerical model of barrier island breaching is presented that is based on an assumed rectangular breach form. Sediment transport is calculated at the bottom and sides of the breach as driven by the Keulegan one-dimensional inlet hydrodynamics equations. Longshore transport is included and can close a breach. Multiple inlets to the same bay can be represented. The model is validated by comparison to laboratory data and to measurements of ... |
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| Progress in Management of Sediment Bypassing at Coastal Inlets: Natural Bypassing, Weir Jetties, Jetty Spurs, and Engineering Aids in Design |
06 OCT 2003 |
32 pages |
| Authors:
William C. Seabergh; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Maintenance of navigable channels at coastal inlets typically requires sediment bypassing to preserve integrity of the adjacent beaches. Artificial bypassing mimics or preserves the pathways of sediment in the littoral zone and harmonizes the requirement for deepening navigation channels within the context of the natural sediment-sharing system of inlets and beaches. A range of techniques can be applied to perform bypassing. Customary on-demand channel dredging is not always the best ... |
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| "Threes," an Unusual Surfing Spot at Shinnecock Inlet, New York |
2003 |
20 pages |
| Authors:
Frank S. Buonaiuto; Zeki Demirbilek; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Interactions among waves, tide, wind, jetties, and inlet morphology create and enhance surfable waves within Shinnecock Inlet, New York. "Threes," a popular local surf break, can be experienced only during certain combinations of incident wave height, period, direction, and wind direction and tidal elevation. Threes is activated if waves from the south-southeast to south-southwest propagate into the inlet, reflect first off the east jetty, then off the west jetty, and ... |
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| Hypothetical Relocation of Fire Island Inlet, New York |
2003 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; Gary A. Zarillo; John F. Tavolaro; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Hypothetical eastward relocation of Fire Island Inlet is examined as a thought exercise in regional sediment management. Subjects considered include morphologic behavior of the inlet, hydrodynamics of the present and hypothetical relocated inlet, collapse of the existing ebb-tidal shoal and formation of new ebb and flood shoals, sand bypassing, navigability, and stability of the beaches east and west of the inlet. The relocated inlet would be more hydraulically efficient than ... |
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| Shoreline Response to Breakwaters with Time-Dependent Wave Transmission |
2003 |
12 pages |
| Authors:
Ty V. Wamsley; Nicholas C. Kraus; Hans Hanson; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Wave transmission is a leading parameter determining the response of the shoreline to a detached breakwater, reef, or spur attached to a jetty. To improve the predictive capability of the shoreline response numerical model GENESIS, published empirical formulas for the wave transmission coefficient were incorporated to calculate time-dependent wave transmission and shoreline response. Simulations for different structural configurations, wave climates, and water levels demonstrate the functional utility of time-dependent wave ... |
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| Morphologic Analysis of Sebastian Inlet, Florida: Enhancements to the Tidal Inlet Reservoir Model |
2003 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Gary A. Zarillo; Nicholas C. Kraus; Ronald K. Hoeke; FLORIDA INST OF TECH MELBOURNE DEPT OF MARINE AND ENVIRONMENTAL SYSTEMS
|
| Geomorphic analysis was conducted for Sebastian Inlet, FL to re-formulate an analytic model of shoal evolution and sediment bypassing. The Tidal Inlet Reservoir Model (Kraus 2002) was enhanced to include sediment pathways that allow seasonal reversals in littoral sand transport and episodic sand by-passing from an intra-inlet sand trap. The model was established with the aid of historical morphologic data from Sebastian Inlet, interpreted together with process data. |
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| Numerical Simulation of Sediment Pathways at an Idealized Inlet and EBB Shoal |
2003 |
15 pages |
| Authors:
Adele Militello; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| Bypassing at inlets can occur across the ebb shoal, through tidal exchange, and by episodic collapse of shoals. To examine ebb-shoal and tidal exchange bypassing in a systematic way, we investigated sediment pathways at an idealized inlet with a coupled tide, wave, and sediment transport-morphology change numerical modeling system. The idealized inlet, ebb shoal, and channel were devised to test the coupled modeling system and isolate sediment transport pathways driven ... |
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| Federal Inlets Database |
JAN 2002 |
9 pages |
| Authors:
Erica E. Carr; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) is developing a database of Federal Inlets to consolidate inlet characteristics and statistics in a conveniently accessible form and to identify information gaps. The Federal Inlets Database covers 153 inlets and entrances in the continental United States and Alaska that are Federally maintained, and it is a detailed subset of a larger database being compiled for more than 500 ... |
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| Analytical Solution of One-Dimensional Bay Forced by Sea Breeze |
2001 |
11 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; Adele Militello; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| This paper introduces a closed-form analytical solution of the one-dimensional (1D), depth-averaged linearized momentum and continuity equations that incorporates linear bottom friction and the non-linear wind stress. The solution describes wind-forced motion in a 1D basin with horizontal bottom as governed by water depth, basin length, bottom friction coefficient, wind speed, and fundamental frequency of an oscillatory wind. The solution displays in compact form general behavior and dependencies of the ... |
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| Engineering Study of Inlet Entrance Hydrodynamics: Grays Harbor, Washington, USA |
2001 |
11 pages |
| Authors:
Mary A. Cialone; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| An extensive field data collection effort was undertaken in Fall 1999 to examine wave propagation and currents through an inlet entrance. These data support a circulation and wave model for Grays Harbor, Washington, a jettied entrance with a large tidal prism. Both the field data and model results show wave attenuation in the inlet entrance, flood currents strongest on the north side of the inlet, and ebb currents more uniformly ... |
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| Generation of Harmonics by Sea Breeze in Nontidal Water Bodies |
2001 |
10 pages |
| Authors:
Adele Militello; Nicholas C. Kraus; ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The sea breeze introduces harmonics of its diurnal cycle into water bodies, which can be notable for strong sea breeze and microtidal and nontidal conditions. The harmonics can be of the same magnitude as those produced by bottom friction and dominate those produced by nonlinear terms in the equations of motion. A closed-form analytic solution of the linearized depth-averaged equations of motion including friction is discussed for the situation of ... |
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| Analytical Model of Spit Evolution at Inlets |
JUN 1999 |
17 pages |
| Authors:
Nicholas C. Kraus; ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
|
| The evolution of spits at inlets located on alluvial shores is examined from the perspective of process-based modeling. Hydrodynamic and morphologic processes controlling spit evolution are first identified and classified according to major spit parameter and time scale. An analytical model of spit evolution is then presented that describes cause and effect between selected spit parameters and the acting processes, focusing on spit elongation and its rate of change. Predictions ... |
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